Meanwhile, the glossy, greenish-brown caviar is mild-tasting and more soft-textured than the brinier osetra (farm-raised and similarly priced) that bursts in the mouth at Binkley’s. Although I love the la-di-da presentation, most of the blini are so undercooked they’re still wet at the center. Kaluga caviar, a farm-raised freshwater variety said to capture the essence of critically endangered (and therefore illegal) Beluga caviar, arrives in its 1-ounce tin on a footed silver caviar dish atop a silver tray rimmed with tiny bowls of sour cream, hard-cooked egg yolk, crêpe-like blini, and minced egg white and potato gaufrettes (think waffle chips). This wouldn’t happen at, say, Roka Akor down the street, where Kusshis are a tad pricier but handled with care. Another three or four have been carelessly tipped on their sides, causing the oyster liquor to spill out. The oysters themselves are lovely, but they’ve been poorly shucked and a handful of them contain bits of shell. To begin, we order a dozen plump, creamy Kusshi oysters on the half shell, accompanied by agreeably sharp Champagne mignonette and horseradish-zippy cocktail sauce. We dither over the wine list while munching, and are not impressed: It’s lengthy enough, but offers precious few decent bottles for less than $200. The uptown steakhouse will be Maple & Ash’s third location, joining the original in Chicago and a satellite in Scottsdale, Arizona.The meal gets off to a wonderfully welcoming start, however, with a complimentary gin-based cocktail, served in a dainty stemmed glass, and plates of nibbles, including salami, breakfast radishes with butter and fresh mint, candied pecans and crusty house-made bread. (Gant is also the the executive chef of Monarch and Kessaku.)
The food menu includes an array of prime steaks, raw/chilled/cooked seafood, and fancy desserts, all overseen by two-Michelin-star Chef Danny Grant. And their kitchens are centered around a wood-fueled fire, which handles the bulk of the cooking. Maple & Ash sets itself apart from other steakhouses in a number of ways. In addition to Maple & Ash, the company also owns a Monarch, a modern chophouse with Italian flair, and Kessaku, a sushi lounge both sit atop The National building in downtown. What If Syndicate is convinced it knows what Dallas wants and needs. While it’s way too early to predict an opening date, Pisor told me at the opening of Monarch that the restaurant is currently slated to debut 18 months from now – so deep into next year. The location for the new Maple & Ash? David Pisor, a partner of Chicago-based restaurant group What If Syndicate, says they’ve locked in a site at the corner of Wolf Street and Maple Avenue where they’ll build something new from the ground up.
The best in town are nearly back to pre-Covid sales numbers (that’s as high as $18 million a year) – and that’s without the typical business travelers who used to spend lavishly on their unbridled expense accounts. Yeah, I know you think Dallas can’t support another premium steakhouse. The restaurant will be located close to Nick and Sam’s, the perennially popular Dallas steakhouse now celebrating its 20th anniversary in Uptown. High-end Chicago steakhouse Maple & Ash plans to open in Dallas, EscapeHatch has confirmed.
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